Today at 8:00 (by Parisian time) newly-appointed Yves Saint Laurent Creative Director Hedi Slimane debuted the line’s Spring 2013 collection. The collection will be Slimane’s first in this new role, following a rebranding spree that has left many feeling somewhat less than warm and fuzzy, and Slimane, in turn, non-plussed:
“It is interesting to see how much reaction this retro branding has created,” Slimane told Vanity Fair. “Clearly, this period of the history of the house was not well-known, which I trust was a surprise for Pierre Bergé [Saint Laurent’s long-term partner]. I went back to 1966 – just before the events of 1968 [when 11 million workers revolted against the conservative politics of then-President Charles de Gaulle – the biggest general strike in history], but the awakening of youth was in the air, and Yves Saint Laurent wanted to dissociate himself from the clientele of haute couture and embrace this new generation.”
In July, the Financial Times’ Vanessa Friedman published the first accounts of Slimane’s first two collections after a buyers-only showing in Paris:
“The resort collection is said to be inspired by the early days of Saint Laurent — think of the famous photo Helmut Newton took for French Vogue in 1975 on Rue Aubriot, with a nude woman in stilettos standing next to another woman in a skinny tux with a blouse dripping a bow if you want the quick-twitch reference. So reports are of skinny suiting, always a Slimane signature, but also, more surprisingly (and interestingly) little silk dresses with bias-cut mini-skirts covered in tiny dots, the tops referencing the tux blouse, both sleeved and not, with a touch of Ossie Clarke.”
There’s a taste of what we have to look forward to when the pictures start rolling in post-show. As big Ossie Clarke fans, we’re excited, but Hedi has a lot to live up to after Raf Simons’ highly-lauded first Dior collection earlier this week.
Photos: Saint Laurent’s Spring campaign via YSL Facebook